Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2011: Garth Pugh, Ann Demeulemeester, Mugler

Who: Gareth Pugh
What it made us think of: Frank Lloyd Wright fused with Frank Gehry
What we liked: the coats (always), strappy-go-nuts boots, striped leggings, OMGBBQ HE USED A COLOR!!!
What we didn't: Color not pictured because it wasn't otherwise interesting. It's getting hard to tell Pugh apart from Rick Owens.
Who: Ann Demeulemeester
What it made us think of: A gang of biker witches
What we liked: raven feathers worn like a bullet belt (marked as a sewing project), long gloves, excellent jackets, boots!
What we didn't: strings, Cruelle Deville furs
Who: Mugler
A label revival is hard to judge on the first show. (Thierry Mugler himself has retired from the runway to costume Beyonce.) Nicola Formichetti, Lady Gaga's costume designer, at first blush seems like a worthy successor to man who made the lizard-bird lady, kiss of the spider woman lingerie, and space android sex slave ensemble. And I mean that in the best way possible. There are enough commercial pieces (and fan frenzy) here to keep Formichetti profitable until next season, but I want the crazy factor cranked up.

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