Avant Garde Fall Winter 2014

The two finale dresses from Iris van Herpen's show are made of silicon. The black one was 3D printed.

This show focused on texture, so some of it gets lost without good detail shots.

 The bumps in many of van Herpen's pieces are artificial fire opals seen through an embroidery mesh. As Nine would say, "Fantastic!"

Van Herpen brought us probably the weirdest shoes of the season.

The all white Threeasfour show looked like a reflection on sound waves.

Thom Browne combined the Catholic church and Victorianism.

Giles featured many lovely hummingbirds, but it was these beetles that show the most love and skill. I can barely hem a thing, let alone make 3D bugs out of fabric.

Christopher Kane featured several dresses that were very structural, but they most reminded me of unloved books warping in someone's basement.

Rick Owens made all of his coat sleeves extra long. They look like a cross between a child in an adult's coat and a straight jacket.

 Next on Scyfy, director Garth Pugh presents: Spacemen vs. Snowmen! I kid, this show was lovely.

Undercover made several looks out of toile print ranging from experimental to everyday wearable, but this red one with a rose cape looks like it was made of wallpaper from the hotel in The Shining. It's trying to be classic and provincial, but it wants to kill you.

Jean Paul Gaultier envisioned the future of Brits in space. Hopefully space-faring Americans can also wear cool hoods.

Comme Des Garcon took a total departure from fashion last season, and this season things have come back to a more wearable and understandable realm. Still, the collection is themed "monster." The clothes often dwarf, swallow and hinder the wearer while other pieces seems surprisingly wearable.

Issey Miyake used steam stretch, which uses a computer to steam heat fabrics and shrink them into grooved textures. Overall, the show focused on strong geometry and texture.

Junya Watanabe offered a study in obsessive patchwork blending textures, styles, sewing techniques, references to past work and fabrics. He didn't, however, cobble together colors staying with an almost entirely black collection.

Tsumori Chisato took the Jazz Age to the Jungle, mixing the two as though often pulling pieces of each and placing them at random, but the result was vibrant and playful. 

Yohji Yamamoto costumers won't be cold next winter. He kicked off the show with overwhelming volume then turned up that volume with loud prints and colors. In the middle we saw models shrouded in knitwear, which took some details from Samurai armor. Near the end, the clothes felt like excerpts from a graphic novel.


Popular posts from this blog

Happy 10th Anniversary... and goodbye.

Shop: Green Tree Jewelry

Dramatic Makeup